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How to Collect Physical Mold Growth Samples for Low-Cost Mold Laboratory Identification of Mold Species

VANCOUVER, CANADA. Many property owners, apartment landlords, renters, employers, and employees want to know, and need to know, the precise identities of the various mold species infesting their moldy house, rental unit, or place of employment, according to Phillip Fry, Certified Mold Inspector and author of the book Do-It-Best-Yourself Mold Prevention, Inspection, Testing, & Remediation.

The accurate identification of mold species requires two steps: (1) physical collection of mold samples from the moldy building; and (2) mold laboratory analysis of the collected mold samples.

The least costly way to collect mold samples is the do-it-yourself approach carried out by gathering actual samples of mold growth to submit for mold laboratory analysis ($20.00 or more fee per sample analyzed).

Bulk Physical Mold Sampling

If a property owner or occupant sees mold growing on a wall, ceiling, floor, heating or cooling duct register, or any other surface, he can scrape mold particles off the mold growth area into a small ziplock bag. Collecting such a physical sample is “bulk mold sampling” or “physical mold sampling.”

During such scraping of the mold growth, the tester needs to wear rubber gloves and a full-face respirator mask with organic vapor filters (such as the 3M brand from a large hardware, home improvement, or safety store).

To do the scraping, use a new or thoroughly disinfected (with ethyl or rubbing alcohol) paint scraper. Disinfect the scraper after each individual sampling to remove any possible mold contaminants, and thus avoid mold cross-contamination in the sampling process from one source or location to another.

Print clearly and neatly on a large pressure sensitive label the property owner’s name, the property address, the precise test location at that address, the testing date, and the type of sampling method (”bulk sample”), along with the tester’s name and contact information.

The label should also include each individual test number, as listed on the mold chain of custody form, available free from the mold laboratory. Attach the label to the ziplock bag containing that respective, numbered mold sample.

Alternatively, the tester can scrape the mold particles directly into a mold test kit (Petri dish) to start the growing (”culturing”) of the mold sample. This “viable testing” growth process takes 5 to 7 days for accuracy in mold species identification.

The tester can then either watch the test kits for mold growth, or send the mold test kit to the mold lab immediately, or after the self-observation growth period.

Another bulk physical sampling technique is to cut out a small section (no larger than 2 inches by 2 inches) of a building material or home furnishing that contains significant mold growth. Then, put that cut piece into a small ziplock bag, or press firmly the moldy side down into a mold test kit. Follow the same labeling instructions explained above.

Examples of moldy materials from which bulk samples can be cut for mold lab analysis are wood timbers, drywall, plasterboard, wallpaper, ceiling tile, carpeting, padding, heating/cooling system filters, clothing, furniture upholstery, and any other favorite mold food.

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Tile over tile means exactly what it says, but in this case you’re going to sandwich a layer of radiant heating mats between the old and the new tile. Tile over tile is an easy way to avoid the mess associated with tearing up the old bathroom floor, but requires thorough planning.

Deflection:

Before you install a radiant heat mat over the old bathroom tile and install new tile over the mat, you should check the floor for deflection. This is the maximum amount the floor can move under the anticipated load (you). Ceramic tile is hard and will break or dislodge if the surface bends under the load. Here’s a simple test:

Stand in the middle of the bathroom floor and jump up and down. If the floor moves it has a deflection problem and is not a good candidate for tile over tile installation until you reinforce the sub-floor.

Avoid That Sinking Feeling:

Since you’re tiling over tile, you must plan in advance to avoid making the vanity, toilet and tub look like they’re “sinking” into the new floor.

One way to keep the bathroom fixtures from looking swallowed up by the new floor is to remove the baseboard and reinstall it above the new tile. Better yet, why not buy new baseboard tile too?

In order to compensate for approximately 1/2″ of additional floor height, plan on adjusting the length of the door(s) and possibly installing a new threshold.

Preparation:

Remove or re-attach broken tile pieces. If you remove them, wait until the floor has been sanded and thoroughly vacuumed before you fill the spaces with mortar.

If any of the tiles have cracks wider than 1/8″, you should consider a crack isolation membrane. This membrane is a roll on product that you apply to the old tile. The membrane allows the new floor to move independently of the old.

Next, sand the old tile so the mortar has a good bonding surface. A belt sander would ensure a consistent bonding surface.

Please make sure you wear a face mask and safety glasses while sanding. The tiles may have been fired with toxic lead glaze.

After sanding, vacuum the tile and wipe down with an all purpose cleaner. Pay special attention to the areas untouched by the sander.

Installation:

Roll out the mats prefabricated to your specifications by the manufacturer. Some radiant systems, like Quickmat, are self-adhesive and require no mortar to secure them to the old tile floor.

If you’re home has only one bathroom, cover the heating mats during inevitable interruptions with plywood or heavy cardboard.

Throughout the installation process, use a digital ohm meter to check the resistance of the heating mats. This will help you monitor the mats for short circuits.

Have your electrician connect the heating mats to the power source and install the thermostat. Depending on the local electrical inspection procedures, you might have to wait until the job is inspected before you start laying tile.

Trowel out the mortar over the mats. Some manufacturers recommend latex- modified or epoxy-modified mortar and grout instead of water-based multi-purpose adhesives. Mortar beds thicker than 3/8 inch should work fine for most systems; they just take slightly longer to heat up.

Since you won’t be covering the entire floor with heating mats(under the toilet), make sure the mortar in these areas is level with the mortar covering the heating mats.

This might sound obvious, but don’t bang the trowel on the mat to remove excess mortar from the trowel. This could sever the heating wire.

Finally, you can install the new tile and baseboard.

Fire It Up!

Your new radiant heated bathroom floor looks beautiful and you can’t wait to get warm feet. Go ahead, but only for 10 minutes. Don’t put the system into full operation until the mortar is fully cured. This can take up to four weeks.

See why thorough planning is so important?

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is your guide to wood and wood pellet stoves, corn stoves, solar heating systems, small space heaters,geothermal heat pumps, landscaping, electric radiant floor heat and radiant heat panels.

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Summer means fun at the beach, park, or pool. It also means time for sun protection because in the California Cancer Registry, the California Department of Health Services estimates that this year in Sacramento County there will be 215 new cases of melanoma, the most serious form of skin cancer.

But besides seeking shade and wearing a hat, sunglasses and sunscreen, there’s one more thing you can do: wear sun protective clothing.

“It’s a misconception to think that every form of clothing provides enough sun protection to prevent sunburn,” said dermatologist Susan H. Weinkle, M.D., assistant clinical professor of dermatology at the University of South Florida, Tampa, Florida.

“In fact, most of the summer clothes we have hanging in our closets would not get high marks for sun protection. But knowing what types of fabrics and colors to look for is a good start.” How to Select Sun Protective Fabric for you and Your Children Light-colored, light weight fabrics, and those with a loose weave do not offer adequate protection from the sun’s harmful rays.

“An easy way to test the amount of sun protection in an article of clothing is to hold it up to a light or window and see how much light passes through the fabric,” said Dr. Weinkle. “If a lot of light passes through, it will not provide adequate sun protection and you should opt for a more opaque fabric.”

Also, consider whether the fabric is stretched or wet when worn. “Any article of clothing that is stretched in certain areas loses some level of UV protection, because the fabric becomes thinner and more transparent to light,” explained Dr. Weinkle.

“Wet clothing also poses a problem, with some fabrics - such as cotton - losing up to 50 percent of their SPF. In Florida, for example, it’s common practice for parents to put a white T-shirt on their children to protect them from the sun while swimming. What parents don’t realize is when this T-shirt gets wet, it actually provides very little sun protection.” And it’s particularly important to protect children’s skin from sun exposure.

“Childhood sunburns increase the risk of melanoma, says Georgia Abrams M.D., a dermatologist who treats skin cancer in Saratoga, California. “Patients may not be aware of skin cancer that is covered by clothing on areas, such as the back.”

So she advises patients to have a yearly skin check.

Sun Protective Clothing for Infants and Children

Kerry Marini, a former Elk Grove teacher and mother of two, was concerned about protecting her infant’s skin from the sun while visiting her family in Australia. From that concern emerged her idea to create a sun protective clothing company in the United States. Fun In The Sun Solar Wear TM, LLC, a company in El Dorado Hills, sells apparel for infants and children that has been lab tested by DuPont and Australian Radiation Protection and Nuclear Safety Agency (ARPANSA) and found to have a Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF) rating of 50+.

The Fun in the Sun Solar Wear fabric, invented by Dupont, is UV protective, elastic fiber LYCRA

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