Fabrication PCB Manufacturing Services.

How do I measure for Blinds to ensure that they fit great?

Its easy if you will follow a few general guidelines, take your time, and use a quality 1″ wide Tape measure. We build to the nearest 1/8″ so the better you measure, the better your blinds will look.

Inside Window Case Mounts (Inside Mount)

1. Measure the width inside the window opening in 3 locations - at the top, middle and bottom. The top measurement is critical because the headrail must fit and you will want the Valance to fully cover the mounting brackets! Record the actual dimension of the shortest width to the nearest one eighth of an inch. Tip… If the window doesn’t taper in more than 3/8″, you can simply provide the width where you intend to mount the support brackets.

2. Measure the height inside the window opening at left, right and center. Record the actual dimension of the longest height to the nearest one eighth of an inch.

3. The ordered width should ensure a precise fit for the headrail and allow proper operation of the shade. If widths in the window vary more than 3/8″, please email the details so we can determine the best size for your windows. The factory makes standard reductions on inside case mounts to ensure the blind fits inside the brackets, the Valance fits snugly and ensures that the blinds will raise and lower properly.

4. The ordered height should be the longest of your height measurements to ensure the bottom rail sits on the window stool as well as provide maximum privacy and light control.

5. Be sure the window opening is deep enough to install the mounting bracket. Our Brackets are 2-3/8″ deep by 2-1/8″ tall. If you still want 2″ blinds but dont have deep window cases, please email your specifics and we can determine the appropriate method for shallow mounts with partial valance returns.

Outside Case Mounts (Wall or Door Mounts)

1. Measure the desired width and height. To minimize light leakage, the window blinds should overlap the window opening at least 1″ on each side, the top and bottom, except where a window stool is present. We will build the blinds to the exact size you provide. The most custom look is to leave the same reveal on your trim molding all the way around. You will need to allow room on the sides or above the window for mounting the brackets. We will include a wrap around valance on outside case mount blinds. This piece will be wider than the blind since it wraps the brackets.

2. When measuring the height, take into account the requirements for mounting the brackets.

Horizontal Blind Installation Instructions

Do I Need to Buy Hardware or Screws?

All hardware is provided with the possible exception of screws. This is due to the fact that different screws are needed in differing applications. In most applications #6 x 1 1/2″ screws are appropriate and we include those. However, the exact length and type of screw will vary depending on whether you are mounting your Blinds into drywall, wood, concrete or metal. As a rule of thumb you can assume two screws per bracket and 2 to 3 brackets per window blind. Having installed Thousands of blinds, I prefer 1-5/8″ Course Thread Drywall screws. The sharp screw point allows for easy starting and the course threads allow for faster fastening. Additionally, a sleeved screw holder for your cordless drill will save you much time and prevent considerable frustration from dropped screws.

Before Starting Do Not use a Razor Blade or Knife to open the blinds You may cut the support ladders. Thats a $20 repair + Shipping fees…and not a good start to your project.

Unwrap the blinds, but leave all cords tied. To determine placement of blind, hold up to the window frame, either an outside mount or an inside mount will be desired. THE HEADRAIL SHOULD BE LEVEL OR THE BLINDS WILL LOOK TERRIBLE! Once it is positioned properly, pencil a reference mark at each end of the headrail. This placement determines where and how the mounting brackets will be attached.

1. Bracket Installation

Right and Left mounting brackets are supplied with each blind. These brackets are used for all types of mounting (outside, inside, ceiling) Bracket doors must face inside the room. Depending on blind placement, it may be necessary to use plugs or anchors before using screws. Center support brackets may also be included to provide additional support on wider blinds. Center support brackets should be spread evenly along width of the blind. Most 2″ blinds with steel headrails should be supported when overall width exceeds 60″. For very wide units, brackets should be placed every 30″ and secured to the headrail with a ” sheet metal screw. Look at the blind first… If there is a support ladder in the exact center, you will need to install the center bracket over to the side about 1″.. These brackets should not interfere with the cords or ladders. Be sure all brackets are level and secure.

A. Inside Mount

Mount brackets at reference points that are even in dept and level with the window frame, and mark the screw holes with a pencil. When possible, I like to set the brackets about 5/8″ deep into the window case. This puts the valance flush to the wall and offers a clean professional look. Before you mark the holes or insert the screws, select diagonal (right top-left bottom) holes to assure a secure installation, and use at least 2 screws per bracket. If center support brackets are needed, place evenly along width of blind. Position each bracket and mark holes with a pencil. Insert and tighten screws through all brackets, making sure all brackets are straight and level.

B. Outside Mount

With blind open, hold up to wall in the position you want it to hang. Make sure the blind is centered and level. Mark with a pencil a small mark below the headrail at each end, also mark 1/4″ past the end of each headrail. Place end brackets inside pencil marks and mark screw hole positions in rear of bracket in a diagonal pattern. If center support brackets are used, place evenly along width of area blind is to be mounted and mark screw holes. Insert and tighten screw through all brackets, making sure all brackets are straight and level. Use at least 2 screws in each bracket. Tip… If you are mounting blinds to a door with a protruding trim molding around the glass, you may want to use spacer blocks behind the mounting brackets. These are the little, clear, grid-like rectangular items. If you don’t need them, the kids can use them to make tiny Ice Cubes.

2. Valance Clip Installation

All blinds will receive valances and are installed with valance clips. Attach enclosed valance clips to the face of the headrail. (Spread evenly across the headrail, 2 for blinds up to 36″ wide. About every 24″ for wider blinds.) This is all that is done until headrails is in place. Tip… Make sure to put these on prior to installing blind or you will be taking the blinds down later to install the clips and you will not be very happy then. Trust me…

3. Mount The Blind

With bracket door latches open on each side, slide the headrail into the mounting brackets and center supports (if center support brackets were used, make sure you didnt line the bracket up with one of the cord ladders or you may damage it and the blind will not operate properly). Close down bracket door latches until they snap in place. Some times a screw driver is needed to lift the bottom of the bracket while you close the door other times you may need to bend down the clasp area to make certain the door latches securely.

***Check Point***

If the blind has too much free play between the brackets, open the bracket doors, remove the headrail, and bend out the spacer tab on the end. Re-install as before. Once you are happy with the fit, unwind the cords and gently lower the blind by pulling the right side cords over toward the left to release the locking catch. For better operation and extended blind life, Use your free hand to lift the bottom rail while releasing the catch.

4. Install The Valance

Place valance against the clips at the desired position on the headrail. Apply top portion in to the top part of valance clip first, than lightly push down, snapping the Valance into place.
For outside mount installation, valances will be mitered on each end and will include returns. The valance and returns will be slotted and attached at with 1″ angle brackets. And My Tip of the Day, for a cleaner look, take a trip to your local Home Center and buy some Heavy Duty self adhesive Velcro. Apply to the valance in several spots then line up the valance evenly and level. Firmly apply to the headrail Just like that, no plastic valance clips and you can still pull the valance off when you repaint the room.

5. Cord Leveling

If cords on your blinds are not at a desired length. they can be shortened. Slide the tassel up exposing the knot, untie the knot, pull cords to desired level, retie knot.. and make sure its a good knot and slide the tassel back down to cover the knot. Cut off excess cord if desired. Also, read the little tags and take a moment to explain to the kids that the cords are not to be tied to anything Not even G.I. Joe and especially not to themselves, pets, friends or family.

6. Hold down Brackets (used primarily on doors)

If hold down brackets were requested they can be installed after blind has been hung. These brackets are used to keep the bottom of the blind from swaying when mounted on doors or exposed to the wind. Lower the blind to its full length applying a little downward pressure for a tighter hold. Insert the pins into the brackets, mark the location of the screw holes on the mounting surface. This is the time you will wish you had a third hand growing out of your forehead… If you don’t, you may want to get some help from someone else… Ideally someone you don’t yell at when you are frustrated. Install the brackets, lower blinds fully and snap the pins in to the brackets. The above advice not only constitutes a tip; it qualifies as marital counseling.

7. Operating Instructions

To tilt the slats, pull the shorter cord on the Left side of the blinds. To raise the blind, pull cord downward and to the right. Blind will lock in desired height. To lower blind, gently pull cord toward left of blind until lock releases. Slowly let cord slip through fingers until blind reaches desired height. Move cord back toward right of blind and release. Blind will lock automatically. Important: Keep slats tilted open while raising and lowering.

For Great Graphics and less colorful commentary, our friends at Hunter Douglas offer instructions at the following link http://www.hunterdouglas.com/servlet/getasset?assetid=13326

http://www.mybeautifulblinds.com Gladly providing Helpful hints to save money and time when installing Blinds.

Support@MybeautifulBlinds.com

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With the price of gas and electricity on a seemingly endless series of climbs, now is a good time to take a look around your home and see where you can make some energy savings.

Over 20% of the heat lost from your home goes straight out of the roof, so it’s important that you have the attic properly insulated. Even if your attic was insulated when the house was built or any time before the last couple of years, it may not have the right amount of insulation.

Recent government recommendations have almost doubled the suggested amount of insulation, and a minimum thickness of 200-250 mm (8 - 10 inches) is now suggested in temperate areas.

If you do need to top up your attic insulation, it’s easy to do it yourself in a few hours if you are reasonably good at DIY. You don’t need any special tools or skills and it can be much cheaper than paying someone else to do it - as long as you don’t put your foot through the ceiling!

But check before you start as grants may be available to help with part or all of the cost of insulation, especially for the elderly or those on a low income or benefit. If you do decide on the DIY route, remember that some types of insulation are irritants so wear suitable clothing, including gloves, goggles and a facemask when you are laying the insulating material.

Make sure you carefully follow the instructions that come with the insulation, and in particular ensure that you don’t block ventilators or air inlets. Leave a gap around the eaves as well to prevent condensation.

Don’t cover electrical cables and keep insulation away from items such as recessed light fittings that may require airflow to prevent overheating - check if you’re not sure.

The attic will be a lot colder once it’s insulated so make sure that pipes are lagged and water tanks are insulated. Don’t insulate under tanks though - leaving a clear area underneath will allow heat from below to rise and help stop them freezing. Finally don’t forget to insulate and draft proof the access hatch.

Now that the attic is snug, it’s time to look at some of the other areas that you can work on to cut down on the heating bills.

Double glazing your windows is most effective at retaining heat, but if you don’t want to replace your old sash windows just yet, you can save energy by stopping drafts. Seal or caulk any gaps around the frame using a sealant gun and cartridge - your local DIY or hardware store should be able to advise you on the best type for your needs. But whatever sealant you use, first ensure that all the surfaces are clean and dry and that there is no loose or flaking paint which could prevent the sealant adhering.

Fit weather strips to opening windows and doors - these come in many shapes and sizes ranging from cheap and easy to fit self-adhesive foam rubber strips to more expensive but durable plastic or metal weather stripping. Prevent drafts under doors by installing an adjustable threshold or brush type strip at the bottom of the door.

Once the frames are weatherproofed, you can look at reducing heat loss through the window glass itself. The cheapest way of doing this is to use a clear film plastic sheeting which is stuck to the window frame with tape and then warmed with a hairdryer. This causes the plastic film to shrink and tighten removing wrinkles and creases. This type of secondary glazing - while low priced - has to be renewed if you need to access the window, and so is unsuitable for windows which you want to open before spring!

More expensive are secondary glazing panels. These are made from rigid clear plastic and can either be fixed to the wooden frame with magnetic tape, or plastic channel which can be left in place. In both these cases, the panels can usually be removed for ventilation and cleaning.

Don’t forget that when you’re draft proofing your home that it’s vital to ensure that you have adequate ventilation in rooms where there is a heater, fire, boiler or any other appliance that needs air for combustion and make sure you never block up air bricks or vents.

Now that you’ve reduced the amount of energy that it takes to keep your home warm, you can turn down the heating. Even a small 1 or 2 degree C reduction on your thermostat can reduce your heating bill significantly. If you can also set your heating to fire up a little later and switch off a little earlier, you’ll find that even a difference of a few minutes a day can add up to a big saving over a year.

There’s only space here to give you a couple of ideas but there is a wealth of further information available both on and off-line on how you can economise on energy use.
Once you start to think about saving energy, you’ll be surprised how it soon becomes second nature and before you know it, you’ll have a greener and more energy efficient home with big benefits for your wallet and the planet.

Russ Grimble helps to run http://www.national-double-glazing.co.uk an online resource with hints and tips on saving energy, insulating your home and useful information on choosing Double glazing or replacement windows.

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What is a glue board? A glue board (aka sticky board or gluepad) is a piece of stiff card with very heavy adhesive on one side. It is inserted into a fly killer machine.

What is a fly killer machine? It is a device that attracts flying insects by shining ultra violet light and then traps them.

What is ultra violet (uv) light? It is light just like any other light. It just happens to be invisible to humans but not to flies, who are extremely partial to it and tend to eagerly fly towards it. Anyway, a fly killer machine attracts flies using its uv light. Some fly killer machines have electric grids that electrocute the fly while others have glue boards on which the fly is trapped. This brings us back where we started.

Once the fly is trapped, it is no longer a threat. Fly killer machines that use glue boards are often used in situations where silent operation is required. Fly killers that electrocute (or zap) the fly give out an unmistakable noise that lets everyone know that the machine has made a kill. Some restaurants would prefer a more subtle operation where the fly discreetly flies into the fly killer machine and never comes out - and no sound is ever heard. Glue board fly killer machines are often made to mimic wall lights. Diners in a restaurant will not give these lamps a second glance, but they are not lamps in the normal sense. They are difference between having a fly spreading germs and giving the restaurant a bad name and a restaurant that pays regard to hygiene and has a good reputation.

If you live near a field or know somebody that does, then you may be aware that they will get more than their fair share of flies (and wasps). Similarly, if you keep livestock, have stables or even a dog, you will have more than the average amount of visits from curious flying insects. The same goes if you live near a food production plant or a refuse dump. For those who are in these areas, they too may prefer one of these discreet fly killer “lamps” instead of the industrial-looking zappers. Life is more comfortable in a fly-free environment. There is nothing worse than trying to entertain friends with a rolled up newspaper in one hand, at the ready. To be on constant guard when you should be relaxing is not ideal. Worse still is the fact that your unwelcome visitors - the flying ones, not your friends - will also spread disease. They will typically visit animal droppings, or a trash can, and then fly around your kitchen, spreading germs that they have picked up on their feet or regurgitating their own saliva on solids that they need to soften in order to digest. Not nice - and completely avoidable if a fly killer machine is used.

Fly killers fitted with glueboards will use less electricity than zapper fly killers. In an age when electricity prices are rising this is an increasingly significant consideration. There are also those who like to count their dead flies. Why, you may ask? Counting how many flies are killed will give an indication of the fly killer machine’s effectiveness and an idea of flying insect activity. This is particularly useful to entomologists and other scientists and researchers, especially those concerned with the environment. Pest controllers will also use this method to determine the best place to site a fly killer. By moving the machine from one location to another they can count the amount of flies caught and determine the best place to site the machine. Manufacturers of fly killer machines, such as Insect-o-cutor. also use this method to test fly killer machine designs.

The method of trapping flying insects using glue has been with us for a very long time and way before electricity came along and gave us zappers. Hanging sticky papers is a practice that still happens today. It is much less common as most people would rather not see lots of dead flies hanging in their kitchen. Not only did electricity give us zappers but it also gave us ultra violet lamps. These will attract the flies to the glue, whereas sticky papers tended to only work if there were enough of them or if the fly’s seemingly random flight pattern happened to take it to the paper.

Glue board fly killers are used extensively around the world. If you knew very little about them before and know more now, then at least, when you next are harassed by a fly that refuses to be swatted, you know there is another way to do it.

Vernon Stent is the content writer for Arkay Hygiene. Here is a glue board fly killer, and here is a glue board

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